Tag Archives: MN North: Pagami Creek Forest Fire Region

Pagami Creek Wildfire / Tomahawk Road Birding

Not the usual suspects!

After days of fog, rain and wind, the forecast seemed to indicate that sun would arrive in northern Minnesota. With faith in the weatherman, I drove north from Duluth at 5:30 am under cloudy skies and lingering fog. My goal was the Pagami Creed Wildfire burn area, which is a bit north of Isabella, Minnesota. One uses Tomahawk Road, an 18 mile long dirt logging road (detailed directions: see last December’s post), to enter the wilderness. While some folks may regard forests fires as a blight on the beauty of the outdoors, without these burns our forests would not regenerate and become more hospitable to all kinds of wildlife. I know from experience that Black Backed Woodpeckers love burned out areas, but today not a woodpecker was to be found near Isabella Lake. Even better, the weather forecast had been correct. When I approached the forest fire area the morning clouds burned off and I was left with crystal blue skies!

Upon nearing the Isabella River I struck pay dirt in terms of birds! A strange bird was crying out … at least for me. Using my bird app on my smartphone, I quickly discovered I was hearing a Wilson’s Snipe. One very nice think about bird apps is they have recorded sounds of most birds. Once I determined I was hearing a Wilson’s Snipe, I found an area with several calling and used my app to sing along (iBird Pro). Better yet, I did not even have an accent! iBird Pro North America even tells one where the bird recording was taken. In my case,  I was projecting a Wilson’s Snipe recorded in Minnesota. No southern accent for me! After 20 minutes I managed to pull the snipes in closer and enjoyed a nice photography session. The snipes seemed to like the burned out wood piles just across the Isabella River bridge.

The area was teeming with warblers and other birds, but they were not my focus. However, on the way back to hwy #1 while in the mature pine forest area (not the burned out zone), I stumbled across an evening grosbeak couple!

Thus, while normally I hope to see black backed woodpeckers and spruce grouse, even though I was shut out on those birds, it was a rewarding morning!

Wilson’s Snipe Singing

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Wilson’s Snipe Perched on a Burned Out Log

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Wilson’s Snipe Photographs
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Evening Grosbeak (male)
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Cedar Waxwing
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Pagami Creek Wildfire / Tomahawk Rd. Winter Birding

Old Man Winter has been kind to us so far this year in northern Minnesota, and when the pre-dawn foretold a mild and sunny day, I decided to drive up near the Canadian border and visit the Pagami Creek Wild Fire region. Given the small amount of snow on the ground so far this winter, I knew that Tomahawk Road would still be driveable. Soon heavy snows will make the road impassable till spring.

My goal was to arrive at the entrance to Tomahawk Road around sunrise for two reasons. First, birds tend to be active at dawn after a cool night as they forage for food; and second, an early arrival would get me past the local logging operations before the HUGE trucks take over the initial miles of Tomahawk. As sunrise in the Ely area was at 7:42 am, I timed my arrival perfectly turning onto Tomahawk at 7:45 am.

There were two bird species I really wanted to see, Spruce Grouse and Black Backed Woodpeckers. Both birds are elusive and rare, and woodpecker would be a lifer for me. Please understand that black backed woodpeckers love large burnt out forest fire areas, and thus there are few areas available that have suitable habitat within a days’ drive of my home. Spruce grouse are also rare, and the best viewing opportunities generally  require one visit the deep wilderness of northeastern Minnesota.

After yesterday’s fantastic birding in Sax-Zim Bog where I volunteer at the Visitor Center and seeing both a Great Gray Owl and Sharp-Tailed Grouse, I should have been happy with a even a fair day of birding today. Well, I had a simply stupendous day of birding! Not only did I see one spruce grouse, but by the time I completed by roundtrip on Tomahawk Road back to Minnesota Route #1 three hours later my tally included well over 30 spruce grouse (unheard of numbers), and a couple of black-backed woodpeckers including one individual who let me watch and photograph / video him from distances often less than ten feet. Life is good … including a new lifer!

Birding Details:

  • Sunrise – 7:42 am
  • Arrival at Tomahawk Road: 7:45 am
  • Spruce Grouse Locations: mile 9.6 (just after Inga Creek) to Isabella Lake BWCA Entry Point parking lot at mile 18.3 … prior to mile 9.6 there are many stands of large pines planted in 1946 which do not seem to host as many birds.
  • Best Spruce Grouse Location: large flock at mile 9.9 (wetlands on NE side of road, small hill on SW side or road … scattered spruce trees.
  • Black-Backed Woodpeckers: near the Isabella Lake BWCA Entry Point parking lot and road … stop and listen for pecking sounds … 75% of the time the woodpeckers were on pine trees already laying upon the ground … make sure you get out of the car and walk \ listen.
  • Departure from Tomahawk Road: 10:30 am
  • Logging Notes: timber operations were only for the first 1/4 mile of Tomahawk Rd … upon arriving there were 5 large filled logging trucks parked but operations had not yet begun for the day
  • Traffic: I saw zero vehicles / people the entire time I was on Tomahawk Road, a period of approximately three hours.
  • Distance from Lester River Bridge in Duluth to the Isabella Lake BWCA Entry Point parking lot on Tomahawk Rd: 93.4 miles (note: it took me 1 & 3/4 hours to reach the turn off Hwy #1 to Tomahawk from Duluth)
  • Cell Phone Connection: Are you kidding?!!

View this project’s Flickr photo stream. (click upon images to view at full size)

Black-Backed Woodpecker Videos

Chowing Down on a Burnt Out Log

Walking Towards Me! Only a few feet away.

Black-Backed Woodpecker: Read & Aim, Fire, Eat!
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Black-Backed Woodpecker
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Spruce Grouse Duo! (female and male)
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Boreal Forest Bonanza

When I got up this morning I quickly decided to head north into the Superior National Forest. The brilliant sun was screaming at me to go and enjoy ice encrusted pine trees. The Boreal Forest did not disappoint. For those of you who know northern Minnesota, I traveled north towards the Canadian border with two stops in prime birding locations, the Sand River area and the Pagami Creek Wildfire area.

Sand River is approximately 40 miles north of Two Harbors, and known for being one of the best places in the state to see Spruce Grouse. The Pagami Creek Wildfire, which to some might look stark, is a great, extremely remote area, where one gains an understanding for how forest fires are actually beneficial to the forest ecosystem. This fire was the result of a lightning strike four years ago, and now hosts fantastic  wildlife, even in early winter.

I had a number of birds on my “hit list” which were:

#1 Target Birds: Black Backed Woodpeckers, Northern Hawk Owls, and Spruce Grouse
#2: Target Birds: Pine Grosbeaks and Red Crosbills
#3: Target Birds: Anything else!

Truth be told, maybe I should have added Great Grey Owls to list #1, but given I was arriving in the Sand River area one hour after sunrise (by design), it would be unlikely to see these nocturnal birds at that time of day. However, Northern Hawk Owls hunt during the day and therefore made send to be on list #1.

Here is where I am going to sound like a fisherman who tells of the “one that got away”. Remember, I am both a birder and a “photographer”. While parked next to the Isabella River in the Pagami Creek Wildfire area, and watching three otters play on the newly formed ice, a Black Backed Woodpecker landed in a tree not more than five feet from me. Please understand I have never seen a Black Backed Woodpecker in my life. Thus seeing this bird which prefers burned out regions was a treat, but my camera was laying on the seat next to me. By the time I grabbed said camera, raised it up, the woodpecker had flown across the river out of view. I DID, however, enjoy watching the otters play!  🙂

In addition to the Black Backed Woodpecker, while stopped at the Isabella River for about 30 minutes I saw bald eagles, a rough-legged hawk, my friendly otters, snow buntings, and grey jays. I did not however seen a Northern Hawk Owl.

Another treat was to see a very dumb bunny! While stopped to take photographs of Sand River early this morning, a snowshow hare ran right at me (hmmm … remember Jimmy Carter and the killer rabbit?!). This event is unusual as snowshoe hares are mainly nocturnal, and normally they do not run right at you when your camera is in your hands! I wish the Black Back Woodpecker understood how one should respond to wildlife photographers. Unfortunately, the local Spruce Grouse did not pose for me, or even let themselves be seen.

Finally, if you are interested in visiting the Pagami Creek Wildfire area, Tomahawk Road is still quite drivable, but I would recommend having 4 wheel or all wheel drive. The snow and gravel / muck while not overly deep could be a bit of a challenge otherwise for a two wheel drive car. I only saw two deer hunter’s trucks on Tomahawk Road (18 miles from hwy #2 to Isabella River). Just wear some bright red, and be intelligent about where you choose to hike.

Finally, some Pine Grosbeak’s posed for photographs near Sand River as I returned to Duluth. They like the otters understood the desires of photographers.

Sand River Approximately One Hour After Sunrise
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The Killer Rabbit / Snowshoe Hare of Sand River!
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Isabella River & Friends (otters!)
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Pine Grosbeaks
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Gravel for the Gizzard!
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